Day 11 Tortola

Tortola, one of the British Virgin Islands, tucked up in the north east corner of the Caribbean, just 50 miles east of Puerto Rico and just a mile from the US Virgin Islands.  BVI comprises some 50 or so small, volcanic islands with Tortola its main island, which has a population of around 17,800.  Road Town is the capital and where the ship docks. Tortola has less than half the land mass of the Isle of Wight, so it’s possible to see a good bit of it in the few hours that we have.   Once a sugar producer and exporter to the UK, but the cane industry has long gone and there remains just one small rum distillery.  Tourism is now the main industry with most of the revenue coming from boat charters and of course the cruise ships.

We were awake early this morning and after a quick cup of tea we were out on deck to watch the ship navigate through the islands and into its berth at Road Town.  It really is quite amazing how they manoeuvre the ship alongside, given that it’s about the size of three football pitches.  On the opposite side of our birth was a German cruise ship and you know what?  There was not a single towel on any of their sun beds!!! 

From where we were standing on the sun deck, we could see right into the flying bridge where Captain Carr from Wigan was conducting the crew to berth the ship.  He was playing with his ‘satisfaction’ beads, which apparently are the opposite to a set of worry beads. He reckons that he plays with them when he is satisfied that everything is ok.  The time to be concerned is when he stops playing with them.  No sign of the whippet, but he looked quite smart in his flat cap with all the scrambled egg round the peak.

Once alongside we went to breakfast and refuelled for the day ahead.  We have never been to Tortola so a getting ashore and booking a tour with a taxi was our first priority.  Once clear of the dockside the tour busses were in abundance and we opted for one of the air conditioned minibuses rather than the open sided vehicles.  This was mainly because the weather forecast was not particularly good andt the temperature was still 28 deg C.

Wayne was our driver for the trip and like most tour bus drivers we have encountered,  he was a gem.  Excellent commentary, friendly banter and ended up well over an hour longer than we expected for our US$20 each.  From the port we headed round Baughers Bay past the container depot (almost everything has to be imported) and the marina to the museum.  It used to be a sugar mill and distillery, but is now compulsory tour stop as it is suspected that Wayne’s sister works there.  From the museum we climbed up a very steep incline that is Belle Vue Road leading to Ridge Road, which strangely enough runs along the central ridge of the island.  Stopping at various points for Kodak moments, the scenery would have been stunning had the clouds not obscured the sun.  However it did poke its head out from time to time and when we reached Cane Garden Bay on the NW coast is was almost sunny.  From there it was a short hop to the remaining distillery on the island.  No conducted tours, just the opportunity to buy firewater.

On then to Frenchman’s Cay, which necessitates going over a bridge from the mainland, which must be all of about 5 yards wide!  However, Frenchman’s Cay has a pretty little marina, home to some expensive looking catamarans,  trendy shops and  a number of restaurants.  Returning over the ‘bridge’ to the mainland, we then hug the coast, heading back to Road Town.  We passed an interesting beach front bar called the Bomba Shack which has various items of ladies and gents knickers nailed to the roadside of the bar.  Apparently it’s a fairly wild bar in the evening and it’s customary to leave the premises commando fashion, having enjoyed the local rum.  It is also alleged that at midnight, they brew tea – but not as we know it.  Theirs is brewed with mushrooms!  It must be a popular place as it seems to have expanded onto the opposite side of the road.  Could be fun being the official photographer at that place.

The run into Road Town was the flattest part of the journey and some of the nicest scenery as we hugged the coastline with smaller islands just offshore.  We walked the last half mile to the ship passing through what could be described as a tented village, which was the local market selling all he necessary tot for tourists to take home. 

Once back on board we were just in time for a late lunch before the self service restaurant closed, then a sit down before getting ready to set sail for Antigua.  The German ship was not leaving until 6pm apparently, but there were a significant number of people lining both our ship and theirs as we pulled away from the quay.  Loud music, cheers and Mexican waves were the order of the day.  Captain Carr from Wigan even had a huge hand on a stick which he used to wave to the German passengers and to the German Captain who was on their bridge. 

At 7pm this evening we have travelled 19 nm from Tortola and have a further 158 nm before reaching St John’s in Antigua.  We are currently cruising at 13 knots and the wind is blowing a moderate gale at 23 knots.

I think we’re pretty safe from the icebergs now and I’ve never heard of a U boat attacking anyone in the Caribbean, but we mustn’t get complacent, as the new worry is - Pirates.  I bet Jonny Depp has had his eye on this ship since we arrived in the Caribbean and for all we know, the Black Pearl is right behind us, just waiting for the right time to come along side and board us.

Dinner tonight was just magnificent, smoked salmon with eggs Benedict, baked pumpkin soup, and breast of partridge followed by Irish cream souflette with molten chocolate centre.  Had to pass on the cheese tonight it was just too much.

No show this evening as we’re all cream crackered, so an early night instead.  Need to be up and about early if we want to see the ship dock in Antigua.